Having easygoing, funny, spontaneous travel partners helped:
Plaid. Turns out this is required in Portland. We literally ended up changing into recently-bought second-hand plaid shirts at a bus stop due to city-wide peer pressure.
Book, specifically Powell's City of Books, which beats Moe's, City Lights AND The Abbey hands down. Please note that this picture is of just ONE of many stacks of used, super cheap copies of Metamorphosis ALONE.
Excellent hosts made the city feel immediately welcome, and are perfect examples of the borderline-creepy friendliness of the general Portland population:
And the hikes. Oh, the hikes!
But it was the mentality that we could immediately feel, the unhurried pace, the unconcerned attitude, the predisposition to helpfulness and friendliness, that made it painfully hard to leave this place knowing that we'd be returning to San Francisco, to UCSF, to tall buildings and on time and no time and all the time, to a neighborhood where your plaid has to be tight and ironic, to a daily push to BE ON TOP.
Of what? For what? Where is my coffee? I miss Portland.